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Finest birding in Asia




3-day guided birding trip

Laem Pak Bia area +

Kaeng Krachan NP

207 species

with numerous 'trip' photos



Trip Report

2-day guided trip

Laem Pak Bia-Kaeng Krachan

February 2009

Copyright © Birding2asia 2008-2011. All rights reserved.


Thailand tour with Birding2Asia, November 2008.


Author ; Bernard Burgess (

Other participants ; Jim Walford and Nardine Stanniland, Alison Vodic,

                             Colin Taylor and Glenn Lotter.

Leader ; Tom Bex


This report covers my second birding trip to Asia. Having birded previously in Malaysia,

I decided to join Birding2Asia on their tour of Northern Thailand. I’m pretty happy with

the many birding highlights and the amazing total of 403 species seen in these 2 most

enjoyable weeks, the success of which could only be guaranteed by a well organized tour. 

Visit to put yourself in the very capable hands of Tom Bex and the Birding2Asia team.

Kentish Plover and a pair Malaysian Plover photographed 'on tour' at Laem Pak Bia by Bernard Burgess.


Friday 31st October 2008

After about 8 hours in the air we find ourselves descending over densely populated Bangkok,

towards an evening arrival at Suvarnabhumi airport. Outside passport control, Tom warmly

greets us with a firm handshake.

A comfortable air-conditioned minibus conveys us along the well-maintained highway

system to our hotel in Petchaburi.

Our dinner is a taste of things to come, both in terms of the excellent Thai food and the

ice-cold Singha beers to celebrate the days many birding highlights.

Saturday 1st November

No better bird to start a trip than Spoon-billed Sandpiper, so we did as we found 2

together right after an early breakfast and a short drive.  The supporting cast was equally

impressive, with the extensive saltpans hosting numerous shorebirds.  A few Long-toed

Stints are dotted amongst the many Red-necks, Asian Golden Plover fly on and off with

their powerful flight, and we find a single Red-necked Phalarope and 3 Pied Avocet, lucky

us as those are scarce species in the Bay of Thailand area.

A visit to the sand-spit quickly reveals what we were looking for, the ‘White-faced Plover’

with both Malaysian Plover and Kentish Plover nearby for comparison.  Great Crested Tern

and 2 Heuglin’s Gulls made an appearance before we took in some more saltpans and

waders with around 400 Great Knots and just 5 Nordmann’s Greenshank undoubted the


A fine lunch was had at an ‘on the beach’ restaurant were we did sneak in our only

lunchtime beer, just the one because it was hard to resist to celebrate the successes of the

morning indeed.

With the most important wader targets in the bag, we set off for some relaxed birding at

nearby marshes and ponds.  The coastal plain is alive with birds with Grey-headed Lapwing

and a soaring Greater Spotted Eagle my personal ‘birds of the afternoon’ and in the last

light of the day, we savour a group of Painted Storks, the perfect end to a fantastic

opening account.

Sunday 2nd November

This morning sees us bumping up the rough dirt track in KaengKrachanNational Park,

scheduled to bird the upper reaches of this diverse park first. We must have set a new

record to ‘brusque stopping’ when a Rusty-naped Pitta boldly hopped in the middle of

the track allowing for excellent views.

We struggled to find the Ratchet-tailed Treepies but as we kept hanging around the

stake-out at km 27, we eventually got rewarded.  A loose flock of both Lesser Necklaced

and Black-throated Laughingthrushes was joined by a couple of perfectly performing

White-hooded Babblers.  After that, things got a bit quiet but we still managed to lure

in some colourful fellows in the form of Banded Broadbill and Banded Kingfisher. 

That afternoon, lots of the more common but nevertheless beautiful birds kept us busy

scanning the feeding flocks until Tom had another scarce and sought-after species

pinned down as we got brief but satisfactory views of Grey-peacock Pheasant.

The journey had been planned to allow time to look for night birds and we notch up

Large-tailed Nightjar and both Collared Scops Owl and Brown Hawk Owl before dinner.

Monday 3rd November

A fantastic orange sunrise illuminates the sky to the east as we drive into Kaeng Krachan

NP for our second full day in an attempt to do this superb place any justice.  We certainly

made up today for yesterdays lack of Hornbills with splendid views of both Great and

Wreathed Hornbills while I lost count of the many Oriental Pied Hornbills seen today. 

We concentrated our efforts on the entrance road and the section of flat lowland forest

near Ban Krang camp which proved productive for Woodpeckers with Great Slaty the


Scaly-breasted Partridge, Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush Asian Stubtail all appear

in the dull green light of the forest interior.

Black-backed Kingfisher looks good in the field guide, a real appearance in the forest

proves it to be a stunner!  A couple other colourful finds were Sultan Tit and Green Magpie.

On our way out, we count 3 Black-tighed Falconets and a Blue-bearded Bee-eater before

the sun sinks below the horizon. The moon soon reveals itself high above the dark outline

of the forested hills.

Back at the accommodation and restaurant the Thai curry taste particularly good after

such a productive and enjoyable day.

Tuesday 4th November

Our final morning at Kaeng Krachan produced Violet Cuckoo, Crested Goshawk,

Chestnut-breasted Malkoha and Orange-headed Trogon as most notable findings.

Quiet a bit of a drive with lunch on the way saw us empty the minibus at the shores

of Bung Boraphet, the huge wetland near Nakon Sawan were it didn’t took us long to

find a nice Siberian Rubythroat run along the ground in a thicket.

Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker performed at some stake-out trees. Oriental Darter and

Rudy-breasted Crake are the highlights found closer to the waters edge.

Wednesday 5th November

A relaxed morning taking in the stunning beauty of Sukhothai historical park also held

a few birds not seen on the trip otherwise.  Hoopoe, Lineated Barbet and Black Baza all

showed well in the temple grounds.

After lunch in the town named Tak, we head for MaharatNational Park were a steep flight

of steps took us to an impressive huge tree with birding in its vicinity particularly good. 

We had hoped to score a Blue Pitta here but it was again Rusty-naped Pitta stealing the

show after our successes at Kaeng Krachan.  Saving Blue Pitta for later in the tour we did

find our target Olive Bulbul along with Bamboo Woodpecker, White-browed Piculet,

Spot-necked Babbler and Pin-tailed Green Pigeon.

Delighted with our success we return to the minibus for a comfortable night in Tak.

Thursday 6th November

We got promised a ‘big’ breakfast this morning and yeah, I must admit I never felt

hungry for lunch today, excellent.

Even better was the dry dipterocarp forest at Mae Ping national park that held some of

the easiest to find woodpeckers on earth.  In no time, we notch up White-bellied,

Black-headed, Common Flameback, Greater Yellownape and Grey-capped Pygmy

Woodpecker.  Yellow-footed Green Pigeon took some more finding but while searching

such delights as Collared Falconet, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Black-hooded Oriole, Rufous

Treepie and Raddes Warbler made the place live up with plenty birds.  Both Grey-headed

and Blossom-headed Parakeets put up a great show before we had Burmese Shrike and

scarce Rufous-winged Buzzard, 3 of them, on our way out.

A comfortable minibus ride later, we spotlighted an Asian Barred Owlet near the hotel

at the foot of Doi Inthanon.

Friday 7th November

It’s a wonderful bright, clear morning as we enter the mossy forest on the summit

boardwalk of Doi Inthanon.  Bird activity is high at these cool heights and in no time

we notch up some of the goodies; Green-tailed Sunbird, Pygmy Wren Babbler,

White-browed Shortwing, Slaty-backed Flycatcher, Chestnut Thrush, Chestnut-tailed

Minla and we managed to lure in a Rufous-throated Partridge.

After an injection of some of the best hot chocolate in Thailand at the summit café we

start walking down on the road, which proves the best way to connect with Ashy

Wood Pigeon and Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker. 

Later, a short drive down brings us to the start of the jeep track at km 37 where we

spend the next few hours in search of the more elusive forest species. It is immediately

apparent that the forest here is inhabited by a different set of birds than those found near

the summit.  We have success finding Silver Pheasant, Grey-headed Parrotbill, Eye-browed

Wren Babbler and a tape responsive Lesser Shortwing. It went pretty quiet in the forest

after that so we decided it was time for another hearty lunch, eh birdy lunch.  Mr. Deangs

café had a stake-out Dark-sided Thrush as well as Siberian Blue Robin and Blue-throated


Most of the afternoon we spent at km 33, scanning the various flocks that kept the area

active for birding throughout. I can remember the Long-tailed Broadbills, Chestnut-fronted

Shrike Babbler, Little Pied Flycatcher and a Green Cochoa as particularly beautiful birds.

Transferring back to our minibus we expect a swift return to the resort, but Tom has

another one of his surprises in store as he sneaks through the bamboo to follow a well

hidden trail into a lush gulley. The stake-out Slaty-bellied Tesia shows in no time along

with another Lesser Shortwing. Excellent ending to a fantastic day.

Saturday 8th November

Delighted with yesterday’s success on the mountain, we have a relaxed second day on

Doi Inthanon searching for what is still needed.  We take in all the waterfalls today with

the suspected White-capped and Plumbeous Water Redstarts showing well and an

unsuspected Black-backed Forktail giving brief views on the track down Vachirathan

waterfall, only Slaty-backed Forktail keeps eluding us so far.

On the road up, 2 birds sitting at the roadside catch our eye and after a quick stop we

got them identified as a pair very cooperative Mountain Bamboo Partridges, I had

expected these birds to be a bit more shy.

Back on the jeep track, the extras included a group White-necked Laughingthrushes,

Small Niltava, Grey-sided Thrush and a surprise Long-tailed Thrush.  Some roadside

birding revealed other goodies with Spectacled Barwing, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon

and a brief view of Bay Woodpecker sticking to the memory.

Our descent late that afternoon takes us back to tropical warmth but we stop for a last

stroll near km 22, or 23 can’t remember. Anyway the stream here held Slaty-backed

Forktail making us able to tick it off at last.  Green Magpie and Rosy Minivet pretty much

concluded the day.

Sunday 9th November

Our last morning on Doi Inthanon in the dry forest lower down gets us some of the

species already seen at Mae Ping again but we fail to find White-rumped Falcon, not that

we had expected to find this rare bird really.

Lunch in Chiang Mae was a highlight with delicious fresh salads and other healthy stuff.

The afternoon on Doi Pui held a day time Collared Owlet, could it be an omen of the

night birds to come later in the day?  We kept busy until dark identifying the many

warblers and other small birds that wave by in numerous flocks. That evening, a calling

Asian Barred Owlet adds to the atmosphere of the stunning setting as the sun sinks

behind ridge-after-ridge of forested hills.

We got brought to some exact spot in the mountains after dark and a few seconds tape

playback got a Hodgon’s Frogmouth respond immediately.  We follow the source of the

calls and after a few minutes we manage to coax our number-one target into view,

excellent work done.

It took us our 4th calling Mountain Scops Owl to try and get close enough to the bird

to make any chance seeing it.  But some particularly loud bursts of the tape did the trick

and there it was, in full view, the little fellow.

On our return trip to Chiang Mai we pull into one of the viewpoints to be delighted with

an exciting night time look over the city that spreads beneath us. I instantly promised

myself to return to this romantic setting some day with a lady-companion.

Monday 10th November

Green Peafowl was an easy tick this early morning so we got back in no time for

breakfast at the hotel.

An area with some lakes, pools and marshy edges with the name Thung Tao was visited

in the late morning.  The surprise highlights of a small bagful of species found in the area

include Red Avadavat, Wire-tailed Swallow, a Rufous Woodpecker, Rufous Treepie,

Burmese Shrike, Chestnut-tailed Starling and another Rufous-winged Buzzard.

Another sumptuous Chiang Mai lunch later sees us on the long but comfortable drive

back south for an overnight stay at the known hotel in Nakhon Sawan.

Tuesday 11th November

Another morning at Bung Boraphet marsh with lots of reed warblers and water birds

but I remember the Spot-billed Pelicans to have been the highlight.

Limestone Wren Babbler at the Phuttabath stake-out came in the form of an easy and

excellent twitch on our way to Khao Yai, with Racket-tailed Treepie another trip tick.

The many bats exiting their cave near Khao Yai weren’t accompanied by the hoped for

birds of prey but the dancing spiral of thousands of bats are an amazing sight

nevertheless, well worth it to go watch this spectacle.

Wednesday 12th + Thursday 13th November

Both our 2 full days at KhaoYaiNational Park each held its own surprises.  On the

first day we concentrated our efforts on roadside birding inclusive the road up to

radar hill and we catched glimpses of the wild dogs from the wildlife hide in the evening.

Highlights included White-throated Rock Thrush, Golden-crested Myna, Oriental Hobby,

Blue-bearded Bee-eater and Swinhoe’s Minivet.

On our second day leech socks got hoisted high and knotted tightly for some real work

on the trails.  Well worth every effort in the end as we got splendid looks at the highly

prized Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo along with White-crowned Forktail, Red-headed

Trogon, Great Hornbills, Dusky Broadbill, and Moustached Barbet. It took some finding

but eventually we got connected with a inquisitive Eared Pitta allowing for once in a

lifetime views, there was no sign of Blue Pitta however.

The better raptors seen by us at Khao Yai were Mountain Hawk Eagle and 2 Black Eagles.

A family party of White-handed Gibbons fed in a high treetop, affording stunning views

and a Binturong showed well in a fruiting tree to conclude our mammal sightings of the trip.

Friday 14th November

Last morning birding of the trip and spent very well. Siamese Fireback came in easy as

a real bonus for the trip.  These gorgeous pheasants are not to be missed on any trip

to Thailand!

After a quick look at the numerous Red-breasted Parakeets and a few Woodpeckers

we had also seen earlier in the trip is was time all to soon for the drive back to the

airport in Bangkok.


Thailand was a surprisingly bird rich, diverse and friendly country and I really enjoyed

joining this tour which resulted in one of the best planned and most smoothly executed

trips I have ever made. 

Many thanks must go to my fellow tour-mates Jim and Nardine, Glenn and Colin and our incomparable Alison for their most enjoyable company throughout. 

We are all indepted to Tom Bex, who has looked after us in such an impeccable manner. 

Our trip has exceeded all expectations and we cannot recommend Tom and his team

highly enough.  ( or email


Report written by Bernard Burgess (


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